Taking Stock in Fish Girls’ Early Success

By Christine Rudalevige

Basic Shellfish Stock (Photo by Christine Rudalevige)

When Mollie and I hatched the Family Fish Project back in October, our main goal was to help our readers in their quest to eat more fish at home.  Ultimately, we want to be the ones you turn to when you’ve got questions about what kind of fish to buy, how to cook it, or how to use all its bits to maximize both the price paid and its presence in the kitchen on a daily basis.

Well, if we were to measure our early success – and we constantly will be doing that as you’ve never met two more Type-A ladies in your life – we’re happy to report that in the two weeks since we launched the blog, we’ve gotten two whole questions.  Two questions in two weeks.  That is a very good start for the Fish Girls!

Last week we helped Phoebe in Berks County, Pennsylvania, navigate her maiden salmon cookery voyage by suggesting via our Facebook page that she make an orange juice, honey and chili marinade, let the fish soak in that while she worked and then broil it for dinner.

And yesterday we got a question from Elizabeth from the Boston area who, wanting to try our Adaptable Asian SeafoodNoodle Souprecipe, asked for tips on making a good shellfish stock.  So while this particular post is for Elizabeth, we encourage all of our readers to keep the questions coming and you may just get one of your own!

A Good Basic Shellfish Stock

The trick to having a constant supply of good stock in the house is a matter of always having it on your mind.  Not in the front of your mind --  like the thoughts about putting your shirt on right side out or remembering to pick your kids up from school.  But, rather, in that part of your brain that helps you manage the underpinnings of your life on auto-pilot. 

You need about two pounds of shellfish leftovers – the shells, the tails, the heads if you can get them – and about a pound of aromatic vegetables and/or their trimmings – to make about a quart of stock.  That doesn’t happen all at once, but over the course of a month or two, and with the help of two freezer bags and a sticky note on the fridge that reads “Save your shellfish scraps for stock!”, you can easily pull it off it 45 minutes of actual cooking.

Any time you buy shrimp, get shell on.  When you go to cook them, peel off the shells and stick them in a zip lock bag in the freezer.  If you are lucky enough to enjoy whole crabs and lobster at home, those spent bodies can be held in the same bag. When you get close to having enough shells, start saving your vegetable scraps.  The tips of onions, the tops of celery, the skins of well washed carrots, the stems of parsley and thyme.  You won’t get all the aromatics you need form this repurposing process, but you’ll have a good start.

On a day when you find that you have an hour to hang out in your kitchen (or not actually in the kitchen, but just around the house so you can make sure the stock pot doesn’t actually ever boil) then you can throw all the ingredients into the pot and make stock to use that day or freeze for a future fish dish.

Easy Seafood Stock

(Adapted from a recipe published in The River Cottage Fish Book)

Makes about 2 quarts

Everything in its place

2 pounds crustacean shells, legs and heads (or 1 pounds of shells and 1 pound of fish bones and heads)

2   Tablespoons olive oil

Splash of brandy, sherry or vermouth (optional)

1 cup celery, chopped

1 cup onion, chopped

1 cup carrot, chopped

½ cup red pepper, chopped (adds both color and sweetness)

2 bay leaves

5 thyme stems

10 parsley stems

10 whole black pepper corns

Directions

Whack the shells with a meat mallet or rolling pin (this works well if you put them in a plastic bag and cover that bag with a dish towel before whacking takes place).  This helps them release their flavor.

In a large stockpot (at least 8 quarts), heat up the olive oil and add the shells.  Stir the shells into the oil and let them cook for about 3 minute.  If using the alcohol (this will help boost flavor), add the splash now and let it burn off for 30 seconds.

Pack the vegetables, herbs and black peppercorns on top of the shells and cover it all with cold water.  Set the pot over medium heat and bring the stock to a simmer.  Keep the stock at a simmer for 30 minutes.  Use a metal spoon to skim off any scum that rises to the surface. Don’t let it boil or your stock will be cloudy and taste kind of chalky.

Let the stock cool for 15 minutes before straining it.  You can use it immediately.  Store it in the fridge for 2 days.  Or freeze it for up to 3 months.